Ornament Magazine

VOL36.2 2012

Ornament is the leading magazine celebrating wearable art. Explore jewelry, fashion, beads; contemporary, ancient and ethnographic.

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CONTENTS ORNAMENT MAGAZINE • VOLUME 36, NO. 2 32 MAKING AN IMPRESSION Paris Fashion Exhibition Arrives in the U.S. Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell insightfully integrates the role of fashion and nineteenth-century life and culture in Paris. 38 GUSTAV REYES The Irrepressible Spirit. Patrick R. Benesh-Liu explains how a love of material, creativity and good business sense combine into the career of this truly innovative wood artist. 44 THE WINDGATE FELLOWSHIP Crafting Excellence. Ashley Callahan describes a fellowship for college seniors in the crafts, which gives recipients the opportunity to develop their careers in this field. 50 MERRY RENK A Jewel in the Crown of Life. 38 Jo Lauria writes about the late pioneer metal artist Merry Renk, who was also a painter and sculptor. Trained in industrial design, she was known for her wedding crowns. GUSTAV REYES Three Treasures Necklace of cherry wood, pearls and silver, 2012. Modeled by Carolina Reyes. Photograph: Tom Petroff. 56 KIFFA BEADS OF MAURITANIA A Fall From Grace. Jürgen Busch reveals details of his nearly two decades of researching the remarkable powderglass beads made by Mauritanian women and the relationship of such beads to ancient Islamic glass bead precursors, which spread to the Sahel via the trans-Saharan trade. 56 44 62 CLASPS The Vital Link. 2 ORNAMENT 36.2.2012 Robert K. Liu surveys clasps and other necklace closures, utilizing Ornament's photographic archives from the last thirty years and discusses their functions. Cover: KIFFA AND ISLAMIC GLASS BEADS from Mauritania. Kiffas or Muraqad are unique, wet-inlay powderglass beads made by Mauritanian women. The largest bead shown is an Islamic glass bead, a morfia, 2.3 x 1.9 centimeters. Courtesy of Thomas Stricker collection. Photograph: Alex and Thomas Stricker. 50 62

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