Ornament Magazine

VOL37.1 2014

Ornament is the leading magazine celebrating wearable art. Explore jewelry, fashion, beads; contemporary, ancient and ethnographic.

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Page 61 of 84

BACHMAL JACKET of velvet Ikat from Uzbekistan, Mongolian lamb trim, silk lining. Hat made from Uzbek suzani, vintage tapestry and tassel from Uzbekistan. antique Indian sari trim in a paisley motif, soft rabbit fur cuff and collar accents. Other examples of the versatile garments she has created include tunics and blouses, reversible vests featuring two different color schemes and types of trim, with multiple pockets, as well as poncho-based coats and ruana shawls. Relying on her extensive repertoire of handcrafted elements from many cultures, Suzi Click draws upon a global palette of resources that also expresses her inclusive attitude and constitutes a welcoming, worldwide collaboration of artisanship. She simultaneously celebrates the origins and makers of the fabrics and accoutrements that she loves and acquires, while integrating, re-purposing and thus transforming them exuberantly into her own contemporary art-to-wear apparel. 59 ORNAMENT 37.1.2013 basis for the manner in which she conceives, assembles and fashions her apparel—and for the collecting and laying out of the fabrics and trims which then dictate the design itself. She works primarily from a concept of structure, and has trained her eye to combine the various components harmoniously, based on shapes, subtle connections or contrasts between graphic designs and blocks of color. First she cuts flat paper patterns then copies them with muslin cloth to pin, drape and test the fit and overall shapes, just as she had learned in home economics. Click loves the model of tribal cultures—wherein there are traditional rules governing the prototypes of design, format or technique which must be adhered to—but then slight individual artistic variations are permitted and encouraged. Her own designs have segued from her first ethereal flirty scarves and dressy special occasion pieces in opulent panne velvets and sumptuous sheer silks, to everyday pieces suited to a more casual lifestyle, in more wearable cottons and comfortable fabric choices. Any perusal of her inventory makes it obvious that Click has combed the world's markets for a special confetti of varied and vintage materials. Her selections might include a Moroccan tapestry scarf with a mirror-inset shisha fragment from Gujarat; a luxurious silk velvet ikat from Uzbekistan with curly black Mongolian lamb trim; a rare Japanese obi sash; a Peruvian Shipibo appliquéd panel tunic; or printed indigo cotton yardage from Mali with handwoven Uzbek Jiyak braid and vintage tortoise button. The choices are endless and may be spontaneous, but every scrap is fair game for effective use. If a fragment is not incorporated into the body of an entire garment, it will be inventively applied to a cuff, scarf, purse flap, or bag strap, along with fluffy feathers, strands of beading, shimmery gold and silver-threaded trim, shiny paillettes, or sequins. She notes wryly that Texas women tend to "like a little bling and flash," so this transplanted native Texan cannot resist adding a few sparkles. Linings and facings may consist of iridescent Vietnamese jacquards, light chiffons or textured dupioni silks. Click has designed everything from crinkled, pieced and scalloped scarves of shibori-dyed cotton voile, vintage metallic sari borders, beaded fringes, to dusters composed of a slinky V-neck velvet self-tied top and sleeves, with a flouncy silk chiffon lower section embedded with metallic mesh flowers and sequins. There are also elegant yet practical jackets of tendril ornamented black Kashmiri wool, edged by

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