Ornament Magazine

VOL37.1 2014

Ornament is the leading magazine celebrating wearable art. Explore jewelry, fashion, beads; contemporary, ancient and ethnographic.

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Page 42 of 84

40 ORNAMENT 37.1.2013 including tin cups, frayed tulle, and tattered newspapers. Galliano revisited the newspaper theme in Dior's fall 2000 ready-to-wear collection, composing a custom newspaper, The Christian Dior Daily, and printing it on a variety of materials for clothing. One of the dresses, of printed silk with an asymmetrical hemline, rocketed to fame when Carrie Bradshaw, played by Sarah Jessica Parker, wore it in season three of Sex and the City (2000), and in the second Sex and the City film (2010). Bradshaw, like Manly and Biglin, worked for a newspaper, and the dress reflects both her profession and, with the words "Christian Dior Daily" across her waist, her status as a fashionista. Galliano continued working with newspaper imagery, even introducing newspaper t-shirts, pants, and underwear. The "news" in his prints often includes Galliano's name and image, and turns wearers into live advertisements, an approach used decades earlier, in the mid-1930s, by Elsa Schiaparelli when she designed a fabric printed with a collage of her press clippings.22 Many other contemporary designers also have used newsprint in recent years, including Betsey Johnson whose dress combines English and Chinese writing, Anna Sui whose dress is black with white text, and Nicolas Guesquière for Balenciaga who combined newspapers and product packaging as influences. Designers continue to work with actual newspapers to create attire as well, encouraged both by the popularity of DIY projects and recycling. Gary Harvey, for example, created a dress using thirty copies of the Financial Times in 2007, dramatically bringing attention to his interests in recycling, up-cycling, and ethical sourcing in the fashion industry. Season Six of Project Runway (2009) even featured a challenge in which participants made newspaper outfits. Early costumes often embodied a straightforward approach to newspapers, allowing wearers to represent "the news" or a specific newspaper for entertainment or advertisement. As creation of newspaper fashion expanded from individuals making one-of-a-kind outfits for themselves to designers producing printed yardage and ready-to-wear clothing, the focus largely shifted to promotion of brands and themes, losing the immediacy of incorporating a recent newspaper but gaining in volume and fashion credibility. Richard Martin, when discussing the newspaper dress in the collection of the Costume Institute, wrote that "the annexation of text to dress gives it new context: editorial PRESS DRESS worn by Mrs. Matilda Butters (1837-1878), 1866, silk and gold braid, Mrs. William Wilson Dobbs (Dressmaker). Collection of the State Library of Victoria, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia. Opposite page: MARTHA LIN MANLY (Hogshead, 1904-1992), newspaper dress, 1929, sateen (probably a cotton and synthetic blend). Historic Clothing and Textile Collection; Department of Textiles, Merchandising and Interiors; College of Family & Consumer Sciences; University of Georgia; gift of Frank Hogshead and The Dalton Daily Citizen.

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