Ornament Magazine

VOL37.1 2014

Ornament is the leading magazine celebrating wearable art. Explore jewelry, fashion, beads; contemporary, ancient and ethnographic.

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CHINESE BLACK CORAL BANGLE, 8.4 centimeters wide; the coral is supposedly of Indonesian origin and heatbent, with an organic quality not characteristic of the Chinese. This type of jewelry was also shown in van Cutsem (2005). VINTAGE CHINESE BANGLES, either only tortoise shell or a base of this organic material overlaid with silver wirework, die-struck silver, fabricated and gilded silver, enameled silver or copper, bezel-set coral, lapis and turquoise beads and bottom-most, of strung or bezel-set coral, turquoise on a field of soldered decorative elements (Liu 1984). Many are replete with symbolism. Courtesy of Leekan Designs. VINTAGE CHINESE BANGLES illustrate a range of materials, ranging from rattan with die-struck silver, carved bamboo with die-struck silver that has been gold plated, heatbent black coral and kiln-worked glass bangle, 7.5 to 8.9 centimeter diameters. The bamboo and metal bangle has not been previously described in the literature although the black coral has (van Cutsem 2003). Black horny antipatharian corals are from deep seas and endangered, although the coral for this bangle may have been harvested a century ago. Glass bangle courtesy of Tao Zeng, others Leekan Designs. VINTAGE CHINESE BANGLES of tortoise shell, bone (?), two of red lacquer, rattan and die-struck silver, rattan with carved knobs and braided copper wire and tortoise shell with a band of metal decorations overlaid with bezel-set or strung semiprecious stones. Silver is usually flush with rattan surface, but not always. The rattan bangles appear to have their skin intact; rattan is both flexible, solid and resistant to splintering, so it is an ideal material for jewelry subject to hard wear. The lacquer bangles are courtesy of Sylvia Kennedy, the rest from Leekan Designs. 19 ORNAMENT 37.1.2013 METAL BANGLES are of silver, one of the classic Chinese Five Metals (Cammann 1962). Note the variety of motifs, forms, decorative and fabrication techniques. The first bangle has a catch that opens and is decorated with stylized coins. Two of the bangles or bracelets have dragon terminals; the last bracelet is unusual, being made of metal mesh.

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